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Coney Combe. Exmoor

18th March 2009
Went out climbing on Sunday and received the bad news that one of Exmoor’s favourite climbs had suffered a rock fall making it impossible at its current grade. T. Cheek, first climbed the route in question, Brandyman, on The 23rd October 1980 with T. Knief who wore his chunky caving boots, none of this chalk and rock slipper business for him. The main couple of moves entailed mounting a huge overlap via a large hanging block ( 2 ), which was jammed between two layers of strata. For nearly thirty years climbers have pulled and stood on this block as it slowly eased its way to freedom. Fortunately, as far as is known it did not take anyone with it. Brandyman is located on the huge recess in the cliff overlooking Coney Combe, about 300 m east of the lookout on Hurlstone Point. On Wednesday I abseiled down the line of Brandyman to inspect the damage and try and find a way past it. I was stunned to find that the entire east side of the feature is in danger of sliding and falling from the cliff. On the 14th October 2007 it was reported that an overlap ( 5 ) had fallen. This did not affect the routes passing over it other than to increase the step up onto the slab above by about four inches. It was also noticed during October 2007 that the section ( 4 ) was dropping and the horizontal crack above was expanding in width. There has not been any noticeable change here.
The final crack on Brandyman has expanded to twice its original width tending to indicate that the section of slab ( 3 ) has moved down and right by about half an inch. It has also started to crush and shatter the block ( 1 ), which is also yawning away from the cliff and is in a very dangerous condition.Unfortunately it seems that we have to let Brandyman go, as there is little point in climbing on rock that may not be there next week. Then again, it did take the hanging block twenty-nine years to fall.

Mother Meldrums Gut. Exmoor.

10th March 2009.
Spring tides and reasonable weather, should be ok to descend down into Mother Meldrums Gut below the Valley of Rocks, I thought. I drove down past Beggars Roost where the wind was moving the trees. Caught a glimpse of the sea down in Lynmouth, the white horses told me that this was not going to be easy. Normally I stay away from the Exmoor Traverse Line if the swell is over seven foot, today it was eleven but dropping. I parked in Lynton and made my way out along the North Walk towards the valley. It was supposed to be warmer than of late but the west wind was freezing. I passed seven hardy souls with rucksacks and boots who were not going to be put off by the weather. I descended the slopes below the walk passing a pair of baby goats that were not much larger than a cat. Thankfully the goats had kept the path open as it skirted around the chasm between the Yellowstone Ridge and the Yellowstone Arete. I walked easily down the length of the Yellowstone Ridge to the end where fishermen have fixed bolts into the cliff. I believe they call this part of the descent ‘The Railings’. To the west (left) was the deep and narrow Mother Meldrums Gut, to the east, the East Inlet. It was my intention to descend down the west wall of the East Inlet and clean the holds for use later in the spring. I tied on and went out over the edge and soon discovered that even on a low spring tide the cliff was being hit by spray and the holds were covered in green slime. There was not much that I could do other than curse that I had allowed my impatience to draw me out on to the cliffs too early, again. I don’t think that I will ever learn. I climbed back up the rope and had my lunch. I gazed out across Woody Bay, I could see the swell striking the cliffs along the length of The Inner Sanctuary between Wringapeak and Highveer Point, and even on this low tide it would not have been possible to climb out there.

The Ivystone. Exmoor

1st March 2009.
Not a bad day. The Metcheck forecast was indicating an UV rating of 5. I had not been out to the Ivystone for a while. The Ivystone is situated on the coast, about one and a half miles west of Porlock Weir. You can shorten the trudge along the beach by driving out to Worthy Combe where you can park at the tollgate for a very reasonable price. From here it is about a forty-minute walk. It is not well known but there is a path leading from the first tunnel on the coast path down through the woods, emerging on the beach at Rockford Cottage. It is very steep just above the ruin, great care is required to avoid finding ones self on the beach much quicker than intended. I have been told that Rockford Cottage was intended to be the home of the butler to Ava Lovelace of early computer fame who resided above at Ashley Combe House. His duties included receiving goods landed on the beach. Another version is that it was built so that the lady of the house could bathe in private. Either way there is still a cleared area for boats or swimming on the beach. Moving west the erosion of the cliffs continues until you past First Rocks. The wind was cold and from the west. I had done it yet again; I had come to the wrong place. The sun is not high enough yet to peek over the hill, the beach remained in shadow all day while over my shoulder I could see Hurlstone Point bathed in sunlight. I bashed on towards Culbone Rocks where the stream appeared to be in full flow. The thick rope a few yards to the west of the stream is still in place allowing the fit and strong to pull themselves up into the woods and on to Culbone. On arrival at The Ivystone I noticed a peregrine perched on the very top of the buttress seventy feet above the beach. The tides are quite high at the moment with low water being a long way out. Until Wednesday it should be possible to walk past the sixty-yard frontage of the buttress near or on low water. I played around for a while climbing across the lower part of St Bueno’s slab sheltered from the wind by the buttress. I then climbed to the top of the buttress via the path, which crosses the top of Bueno’s slab. I was shocked to find that the ridge that runs down on to the top of the buttress had shattered during the winter and the last few feet of the path was missing. Very carefully I crossed the debris on to the top of the buttress where the rock pinnacle is teetering above St Bueno’s slab. I would be surprised if it remains in place for much longer. The peregrine had flown leaving evidence of many pigeon meals on what is obviously its favourite spot. There are deer droppings on the buttress; they have been on the ridge and down the west side of the buttress to the beach. I climbed on the west side of the buttress on a route named Albatross until the tide receded allowing me to walk back to the east side where I had lunch at the foot of the slab out of the wind in the lee of the main buttress. I had a bag full of heavy climbing equipment. I did not feel like climbing up the ridge to the coast path so I retraced my steps back along the beach to Worthy Combe and the car.