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Coney Combe. Exmoor

18th March 2009
Went out climbing on Sunday and received the bad news that one of Exmoor’s favourite climbs had suffered a rock fall making it impossible at its current grade. T. Cheek, first climbed the route in question, Brandyman, on The 23rd October 1980 with T. Knief who wore his chunky caving boots, none of this chalk and rock slipper business for him. The main couple of moves entailed mounting a huge overlap via a large hanging block ( 2 ), which was jammed between two layers of strata. For nearly thirty years climbers have pulled and stood on this block as it slowly eased its way to freedom. Fortunately, as far as is known it did not take anyone with it. Brandyman is located on the huge recess in the cliff overlooking Coney Combe, about 300 m east of the lookout on Hurlstone Point. On Wednesday I abseiled down the line of Brandyman to inspect the damage and try and find a way past it. I was stunned to find that the entire east side of the feature is in danger of sliding and falling from the cliff. On the 14th October 2007 it was reported that an overlap ( 5 ) had fallen. This did not affect the routes passing over it other than to increase the step up onto the slab above by about four inches. It was also noticed during October 2007 that the section ( 4 ) was dropping and the horizontal crack above was expanding in width. There has not been any noticeable change here.
The final crack on Brandyman has expanded to twice its original width tending to indicate that the section of slab ( 3 ) has moved down and right by about half an inch. It has also started to crush and shatter the block ( 1 ), which is also yawning away from the cliff and is in a very dangerous condition.Unfortunately it seems that we have to let Brandyman go, as there is little point in climbing on rock that may not be there next week. Then again, it did take the hanging block twenty-nine years to fall.

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