Exmoor

10th October 2009.

The weather prevented me having a real work out in Wales so I was anxious to get out. Today was ideal. But where to go ? I decided to explore an area which I imagine most people avoid due to it being very wet under foot. The area I chose was the triangle of land within Chetsford Bridge, Lucott Cross and Aldermans Barrow. Rather than just park up and jump over the hedge I decided to make a walk of it. I parked on Dunkery and walked up to the beacon,

then down across to the hedgerow, which I followed to Porlock Post. I continued across Exford Common, across the road and out onto Almsworthy Common. I entered the triangle onto Hurdle Down and followed a path on the NW side of the marsh through shattered conifers to the stream junction. I looked left up the valley towards the road near Aldermans Barrow and remembered that I had once struggled down through those bogs many years ago. I decided to carry on down stream to the bridge. Still having plenty of time on my hands I continued down Chetsford Water. I soon became aware of stags bolving and herds of deer on each side of the valley.

The above stag was on Great Hill on the north side, he did not appear to be very happy, he was shouting at the herd on the other side of the valley.

This concentration of deer was one of the largest I had seen. I followed the track as it climbed out of the valley disturbing the herd on the south side as I passed. I soon came out on the road down to Nutscale and turned right towards the road leading to Pool Bridge.

From the road I descended into Dady Combe then up onto Stoke Pero Common then down again into Bagley Combe. As I climbed up onto the Dunkery ridge I noticed another herd of deer on the side of the hill to my left. Soon I was back at the beacon, my legs telling me that I had walked further than I had intended.

Wales.

1st - 5th October 2009.

Mrs Crumbling Cliff and I decided to spend a few days having a look at Mid Wales. We spent the first day in the Elan Valley. It rained, we spent quite a lot of time stumbling around in bogs. When the sun did peek through the views were spectacular with the occasional sighting of a Kite. We managed to find a few Geo caches and eventually got a few miles in. I have never been up on Plynlimon and fully intended to do it this trip but the guide stated that the approach could be boggy so not willing to risk a mutiny in the ranks we gave it a miss and headed north to Cadair Idris.

I last climbed Cadair in 1964 while on an army outward bound course at Towyn. It was part of the final four day expedition. I recall it being a long slog with a very heavy old style Bergen rucksack chaffing my waist and shoulders.

After the rain of the previous two days we had clear but cold weather. I was surprised to find that much of the path is now protected with huge stone slabs. Large bags of these lie around waiting to be laid. We reached the top of Craig Cau where I remembered the heartbreak all those years ago when we realised that it was not the top and that we had to descend then climb again to reach Cadar Idris.

Craig Cau.

We eventually reached the summit. Wainright is correct, this is probably the best mountain in Wales for all round views and we had a cracker, as far as the eye could see. We had lunch, hunted around for the summit geo cache and explored the stone shelter. We then headed off in the general direction of Mynedd Mawr before turning away down the mountain towards the car park at the Idris Estate.

Sillery Sands. Exmoor.

24th September 2009.

Sillery Sands are located down below Countisbury Hill as you descend down into Lynmouth. The easy way down is to park in a layby halfway down Countisbury Hill and descend a zigzag path to the beach. The beach is about a mile in length and divided into three sections, by Higher and Lower Blackhead Points. The three sections are known as Sillery 1, 2 and 3. Sillery 1 is always accessible from the road via the path and steps. The steps are sometimes damaged during violent storms. Access to 2 and 3 is quickly cut off by the incoming tide. Other than by sea there is no escape from 2 and only those with climbing experience can expect to escape from 3 via Great Red and Coddow Slip Gullies. Don't be misled by its name, there is little sand here at the present time, although the shingle is small and not too uncomfortable. I recall there being quite a lot of sand years ago but all that can be found now is at the bottom of the steps, on Sillery 1 at low tide.

I parked up at Barna Barrow Quarry at high water. There would be no chance of gaining normal access to 2 and 3 at this time so I decided to descend Coddow Slip Gully down to 3. This went well. While climbing down the final 300ft of a recent landslip I noticed curious features in the boulders. This slip occurred about five years ago completely filling the bottom of the gully.

I have no idea what these shapes are. I originally considered fossils or ancient seaweed. It has been suggested that it is metallic stains. This is probably correct because as you can see from the photo below, and in the main cliff there is quite a lot of iron ore present.

I moved west past the bottom of Great Red Gully to Higher Blackhead Point where the beach vanished. I climbed a slab onto the top of the point then descended with a final difficult move down onto Sillery 2. Next came Lower Blackhead Point which gives the impression of being a serious undertaking, but it goes easily by following a large ledge at 12ft up around onto Sillery 1.
I returned via the same route to the base of Great Red Gully and slowly made my way with many rests to the top. On my way back up the path to the car I met an elderly couple from Leicester who visit Exmoor twice a year to watch the deer. The gentleman informed me he had been coming down since 1947. Dedication.

The Ivystone. Exmoor

18th August 2009.

Decided to revisit The Ivystone at low water on a spring tide and get a couple of climbs in. Parked up at Worthy Combe gatehouse, descended to the beach via Rockford Cottage and trudged along the beach to the buttress which was well out of the water. I climbed two routes at the right end of the main buttress. One was new, the other is named Channel Chimney. I then ascended the

gully on the west side of the buttress to the main ridge which I then followed up to the disused coast path. Many years ago I recall driving my minivan out past Culbone to this spot and parking in a recess or layby beside the track. I imagine many other people did the same. Just below the track is an axle with two spoked wheels, tyres still fitted. The area was obviously used to dump various bits and pieces. Thankfully only the axle remains visible. Landslips have reduced the width of the track to a narrow path, its no longer possible to drive to The Ivystone. As I walked back via Culbone it dawned on me that the route in around Culbone Combe extends the distance quite considerably back to Worthy Combe, its probably quicker to walk back along the beach.

Exmoor Coast. Greenaleigh to Bossington.

25th July 2009.

I took advantage of the good weather and spring tide on Saturday to traverse along the coast from Greenaleigh to Bossington Beach. High water at Ilfracombe was at 0916am with a height of 9.6m. Low water was at 3.14pm at 0.7m. Over the years those that have explored the Exmoor Coast have always used Ilfracombe tide predictions where ever they are between Minehead and Ilfracombe. This may not appear to be very accurate but it is not so confusing as having to deal with the many variations along the coast. I parked on North Hill and made my way down

the very steep path to Burgundy Chapel, then along to Greenaleigh Farm. I set foot on the beach below Greenaleigh at about 1030am. The tide was still well in, to the west I could see that some climbing would be required at the west side of the beach. It looked deserted, I clambered over the first outcrop and came across three young men attempting the same route. They were wisely waiting for the tide to recede further, foolishly I continued until I was brought to a halt 12ft above the water where a very slimey groove blocked the route west. I was eventually joined by the trio on a very cramped narrow ledge. By now the beach was dry but the cliff below was undercut with no visible way down. Rather than return along the cliff we set about fixing a rope and lowered ourselves to the beach. Many times over the years I have climbed across the cliffs above the water only to find that it would have been faster and much easier to wait for the tide to ebb then just walk along the beach.

The trio were obviously going to take their time and have a good look around so I left them to it. There were no other problems, I came out onto Selworthy Sands just as the sand was being uncovered. Peregrines with their rapid wing beat were racing across the cliffs and the weather was holding out.

At the Fisherman's rope at the foot of Coney Combe I looked up and saw that the cliffs above have continued to fall since March. Huge areas of slab No's 1, 3 and 4 on the photo have gone plus an area above 3 and 4 taking the apex of the recess much higher up to the grass. I continued west to Fledgling Wall. I had to climb across this 100ft wide feature as the beach was still flooded. From there, through Gull Hole and around to the shingle of Bossington Beach the route went without having to climb above the water. I arrived at low water and decided to return to Fledgling Wall as the rock there is in excellent condition and had dried out well. It wasn't long before the trio came into view crossing the sands.

The tide had turned and they had increased their speed somewhat in order to make it through Gull Hole.

I climbed up via the Fisherman's rope into Coney Combe then on up to Selworthy Beacon before heading back across the hill, reaching the car just as the rain began to fall.

Im back, stumbling across Exmoor.

21st July 2009.

As I was leaving a large area of Exmoor had caught fire. I took a walk out across the area a few days ago and was surprised to find it a lush green with just the odd sign of scorched earth here and there. There must have been quite a bit of rain while I was away. Speaking of which, it does not look too good for the remainder of the week. Nothing changes, there is a good spring tide on thursday ideal for getting down into the the hidden shoreline of the Exmoor Coast, it looks like a washout at present. I am told The Exmoor Coast will feature on the Coast Program BBC 2 8pm tuesday 28th July I will just have to enjoy it from my armchair.

Hurlstone Circuit. Exmoor

11th April 2009.

Did the Hurlstone Circuit on Saturday with 13 others, the largest party that I have known to attempt the route. Brilliant weather, the air has become much warmer. The leader took the main group through Gull Hole but three or four of us squeezed through the tight cave which passes through the headland emerging just the east side of Gull Hole. We explored the caves down below the lookout and made our way out on to Selworthy Sands.

The sands are really uneven at the moment with holes and pools running the length of the beach. Not much chance of light aircraft landing here for a while.

The ascent up into East Combe has become difficult. A slide of wet earth has scoured the holds and buried the end of the fixed roped to the extent that there is no slack in it. It took about forty minutes to get everyone up into East Combe. Peregrines were seen flying across the cliffs above the sands. There were quite a number of people about, the car park was full with the overspill field in use. Yes, even I bought a ticket.

Coney Combe. Exmoor

18th March 2009
Went out climbing on Sunday and received the bad news that one of Exmoor’s favourite climbs had suffered a rock fall making it impossible at its current grade. T. Cheek, first climbed the route in question, Brandyman, on The 23rd October 1980 with T. Knief who wore his chunky caving boots, none of this chalk and rock slipper business for him. The main couple of moves entailed mounting a huge overlap via a large hanging block ( 2 ), which was jammed between two layers of strata. For nearly thirty years climbers have pulled and stood on this block as it slowly eased its way to freedom. Fortunately, as far as is known it did not take anyone with it. Brandyman is located on the huge recess in the cliff overlooking Coney Combe, about 300 m east of the lookout on Hurlstone Point. On Wednesday I abseiled down the line of Brandyman to inspect the damage and try and find a way past it. I was stunned to find that the entire east side of the feature is in danger of sliding and falling from the cliff. On the 14th October 2007 it was reported that an overlap ( 5 ) had fallen. This did not affect the routes passing over it other than to increase the step up onto the slab above by about four inches. It was also noticed during October 2007 that the section ( 4 ) was dropping and the horizontal crack above was expanding in width. There has not been any noticeable change here.
The final crack on Brandyman has expanded to twice its original width tending to indicate that the section of slab ( 3 ) has moved down and right by about half an inch. It has also started to crush and shatter the block ( 1 ), which is also yawning away from the cliff and is in a very dangerous condition.Unfortunately it seems that we have to let Brandyman go, as there is little point in climbing on rock that may not be there next week. Then again, it did take the hanging block twenty-nine years to fall.

Mother Meldrums Gut. Exmoor.

10th March 2009.

Spring tides and reasonable weather, should be ok to descend down into Mother Meldrums Gut below the Valley of Rocks, I thought. I drove down past Beggars Roost where the wind was moving the trees. Caught a glimpse of the sea down in Lynmouth, the white horses told me that this was not going to be easy. Normally I stay away from the Exmoor Traverse Line if the swell is over seven foot, today it was eleven but dropping. I parked in Lynton and made my way out along the North Walk towards the valley. It was supposed to be warmer than of late but the west wind was freezing. I passed seven hardy souls with rucksacks and boots who were not going to be put off by the weather. I descended the slopes below the walk passing a pair of baby goats that were not much larger than a cat. Thankfully the goats had kept the path open as it skirted around the chasm between the Yellowstone Ridge and the Yellowstone Arete. I walked easily down the length of the Yellowstone Ridge to the end where fishermen have fixed bolts into the cliff. I believe they call this part of the descent ‘The Railings’. To the west (left) was the deep and narrow Mother Meldrums Gut, to the east, the East Inlet. It was my intention to descend down the west wall of the East Inlet and clean the holds for use later in the spring. I tied on and went out over the edge and soon discovered that even on a low spring tide the cliff was being hit by spray and the holds were covered in green slime. There was not much that I could do other than curse that I had allowed my impatience to draw me out on to the cliffs too early, again. I don’t think that I will ever learn. I climbed back up the rope and had my lunch. I gazed out across Woody Bay, I could see the swell striking the cliffs along the length of The Inner Sanctuary between Wringapeak and Highveer Point, and even on this low tide it would not have been possible to climb out there.

The Ivystone. Exmoor

1st March 2009.

Not a bad day. The Metcheck forecast was indicating an UV rating of 5. I had not been out to the Ivystone for a while. The Ivystone is situated on the coast, about one and a half miles west of Porlock Weir. You can shorten the trudge along the beach by driving out to Worthy Combe where you can park at the tollgate for a very reasonable price. From here it is about a forty-minute walk. It is not well known but there is a path leading from the first tunnel on the coast path down through the woods, emerging on the beach at Rockford Cottage. It is very steep just above the ruin, great care is required to avoid finding ones self on the beach much quicker than intended. I have been told that Rockford Cottage was intended to be the home of the butler to Ava Lovelace of early computer fame who resided above at Ashley Combe House. His duties included receiving goods landed on the beach. Another version is that it was built so that the lady of the house could bathe in private. Either way there is still a cleared area for boats or swimming on the beach. Moving west the erosion of the cliffs continues until you past First Rocks. The wind was cold and from the west. I had done it yet again; I had come to the wrong place. The sun is not high enough yet to peek over the hill, the beach remained in shadow all day while over my shoulder I could see Hurlstone Point bathed in sunlight. I bashed on towards Culbone Rocks where the stream appeared to be in full flow. The thick rope a few yards to the west of the stream is still in place allowing the fit and strong to pull themselves up into the woods and on to Culbone. On arrival at The Ivystone I noticed a peregrine perched on the very top of the buttress seventy feet above the beach. The tides are quite high at the moment with low water being a long way out. Until Wednesday it should be possible to walk past the sixty-yard frontage of the buttress near or on low water. I played around for a while climbing across the lower part of St Bueno’s slab sheltered from the wind by the buttress. I then climbed to the top of the buttress via the path, which crosses the top of Bueno’s slab. I was shocked to find that the ridge that runs down on to the top of the buttress had shattered during the winter and the last few feet of the path was missing. Very carefully I crossed the debris on to the top of the buttress where the rock pinnacle is teetering above St Bueno’s slab. I would be surprised if it remains in place for much longer. The peregrine had flown leaving evidence of many pigeon meals on what is obviously its favourite spot. There are deer droppings on the buttress; they have been on the ridge and down the west side of the buttress to the beach. I climbed on the west side of the buttress on a route named Albatross until the tide receded allowing me to walk back to the east side where I had lunch at the foot of the slab out of the wind in the lee of the main buttress. I had a bag full of heavy climbing equipment. I did not feel like climbing up the ridge to the coast path so I retraced my steps back along the beach to Worthy Combe and the car.

Climbing. Exmoor Coast

22nd February 2009.

Started climbing proper again today. Went out with a friend and climbed Pebble and Shingle Shack on the Exmoor coast. The weather did not look promising to begin with. Low cloud was settling on the Quantocks and North Hill, with a chilly northwest wind at 1000ft. The sun eventually broke through allowing us to climb in shirtsleeves for most of the day. The air was really clear with views up to the Severn Bridge and way into The Brecon’s, where patches of snow could still be seen on the mountainside. Don’t know how much longer I can avoid paying the parking fee at Bossington, the climb back up to the car park on North Hill is taking a toll of a different kind.

Checking The Exmoor Climbing Stakes

15th February 2009.

The weathers improving, once out of the wind it’s quite warm. Took my hammer for a walk today checking the metal stakes that climbers tie on to at the top of the cliffs.

Didn’t know what to expect from the weather, the Brendons and the north side of Dunkery still had a fair bit of snow cover. A bad sign I am told if it lies about for too long.

The Ravens are busy repairing their huge timber nests so maybe spring is not that far away. People are getting out again, there must have been well over twenty walking on Bossington Hill, plus a couple of Para gliders.

It was possible to climb without the fingers freezing; I could not resist a quick traverse across the slab above Gull Hole.

Read somewhere yesterday that the most stolen book from UK bookshops is the A to Z of London. Can you believe that the second is OS maps, the main one being the Exmoor Explorer map? Active Exmoor has got to be doing a good job.

Exmoor.

31st January 2009.

It’s been a bit of a scrappy month. I have been out a few times but have done nothing much. Had a reasonable trip up onto Dunkery on the 20th where I kicked around in the recently fallen snow in a bitterly cold east wind.

With the threat of snow on the way again I today decided to head out into the moor and walk some combes that I have never visited before. I was going to park at Larkbarrow Corner but on arrival every single parking spot was occupied by a hunt supporter’s vehicle. I was well past Alderman’s Barrow and well away from where I wanted to go before a vacant spot appeared. I should have checked before I left home, but I don’t believe the hunt publishes its meet anymore. I drove down to Allerford and parked, being too tight to pay for a parking ticket at Bossington. I walked out through the woods to Hurlstone where I spent a couple of hours climbing around the point. Not many people about, just a school group at the point. Walking back along the same path to Allerford I looked down on the car park at Bossington and saw that there were only half a dozen vehicles there. I suppose the charges are reasonable compared to The Valley of Rocks, its just a shock after parking there free for so many years. I notice that there are now far more vehicles parking at the end of North Hill and on the roadside at Bossington Green. I hear it is the same at Horner where a similar machine has been installed in the car park.

New Years Day. Exmoor.

Finally managed to drag my bloated body away from the wood burner and out into the freezing fog. My daughter has left her dog in my care for the xmas / new year period while she goes off somewhere nice. The problem is it does not have a brain. I have peered into its large brown eyes and swear I can see light filtering in through its ears. He is 9 months old and stands at about 3ft on thin legs. He has a huge head that is out of proportion to the rest of his body. I think it is going to grow into a horse. She has enrolled him in obedience classes and has left me with a list of orders which providing I issue them in a word perfect and positive way I am told he will respond. I don’t know what I am doing wrong. Anyway today I thought I would take him up on to Dunkery where he could run until he dropped. I was banking on being able to get above the freezing fog and out into sunlight.

No chance, visibility across the top was down to less than 100 metres with a cutting east wind. The heather was covered in frost but this did not deter the mutt as he ran shovelling his nose through the heather looking for any poor bird to chase. We walked up from Dunkery Gate to the Beacon then across to Row Barrows. I did not have a compass, I used instinct to guide us across the two roads and out on to Almsworthy Common. Thankfully the dog returned each time he lost sight of me. We reached Alderman’s Barrow and turned back. It was far too cold to stop for a bite to eat, we had to keep moving. I would guess that the temperature would have been around minus 5 degrees. We crossed Codsend Moor keeping the field hedge in view for most of the way. The trees were covered in frost. Eventually we arrived back at Dunkery Gate. I was looking forward to sitting in the car and having a hot cup of coffee. Could I get the dog into the car? Could I heck. For twenty minutes or more I shouted commands at it from the list plus a few that I made up. It ran around in circles and jumped into the air as though it was on springs. I ran off through narrow gaps and tried to ambush it. I tried to bribe it with the official good boy rewards nothing worked. Eventually a woman with another dog casually walked up to him and caught hold of his collar. Daughter is collecting him on Sunday. I hope. We will all miss him especially the cat.