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The Foreland Gullies. Exmoor

12th December 2008.



The forecast was icy with wintery showers on the front end of rain later in the afternoon. Still, two much younger climbers than I from Barnstaple and Taunton wanted to go out and scramble up some Exmoor coastal gullies. I don’t get many opportunities to climb with others mid week and the weekend forecast looked terrible, so I dug out my long johns and headed down towards Lynmouth. We had chosen Coddow Slip (12) and Great Red (11) as it was about equal distance between the two towns, I had visited both about a month ago and knew that they were in reasonable condition, but I was a little concerned that there may be ice on the rock steps. We met up at Barna Barrow car park on the hill above Countisbury, the wind was cold but it was not freezing or raining. We decided to repeat the route I followed on my last visit but in the opposite direction, as they were both concerned that I would become bored and fall asleep somewhere. Our route would entail a descent of Coddow Slip then back up Great Red. Descending into Coddow Slip required an abseil, as it is very steep in the top third of its length. In these gullies the main cause of injury is being hit by stones or small boulders accidentally dislodged by those above you. Because of this you must all move close together so that the falling debris cannot get up speed between you to inflict injury, it is usually possible to stop the stones just by placing your hand on them. However you can only abseil down the rope one at a time which results in people standing around in the gully 150ft below as you slowly descend trying not to knock anything down on to their heads. We got away with it without mishap and slowly plodded down the last two thirds of the gully to the beach. We turned east and walked a short distance to the Gun Caverns; huge caves running back under The Foreland. I do not know why they are so named, I can only guess it is because of the outward explosion of spray caused by the waves compressing the air inside the tunnels. It was nearly half tide and getting quite choppy, we returned to the bottom of Coddow Slip before continuing west for a couple of hundred yards to the foot of Great Red where we had lunch. Great Red Gully is about 1250ft in length and is graded as a 2 on a scale of 1 to 4. The difficult section involves climbing a 10ft rock step where you dare not pull on the large rocks jammed together at the top of the step. This problem is 800ft into the climb; an injury here impairing the use of an arm or leg would be serious. Refreshed we set off up the gully; the first 600ft is a slog on loose shale and stones. Eventually the gully narrows at the zigzags and you are soon upon the 10ft rock step. On my previous visit I had descended the gully and had merely shuffled on my behind to the lip of the step before jumping down into the soft shale below. Our initial attempt to scale it failed because fine shale or gravel had banked up on top of the step concealing any holds that may have been of use. Eventually by bridging with the feet on each side of the gully and ignoring the gravel we managed to pull over the top. The zigzags continued for a while until we found ourselves on the final steep grass slope leading up to the wooden railings at the top. The gullies had kept us occupied to the extent that we had not noticed that we had been out of the freezing wind, which now chilled us to the bone as we made our way towards the pub at Countisbury.

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